Hydroquinone 101

Hydroquinone is the gold standard in skincare for hyperpigmentation. It evens out the skin tone by lightening hyperpigmentation – this could be freckles, age spots, melasma, or leftover pigmentation from acne.

Type of ingredient:

Skin-lightening agent

Main benefits:

It slows down melanin production in skin cells by inhibiting the naturally occurring enzyme tyrosinase, which is important for the development of skin melanin (pigment). As long as you continue to use hydroquinone, you will inhibit tyrosinase, and hence pigment, production.

Who should use it:

Patients with dry and sensitive skin may experience irritation at first. This usually tapers off as your skin adjusts to the ingredient. Do not use this ingredient if you are pregnant, breastfeeding or plan to become pregnant during treatment.

How often can you use it:

You should apply it once or twice daily after cleansing and toning but before your moisturizer.

It works well with:

Sunscreen is a must while using this ingredient. Sun exposure can not only make hyperpigmentation worse but also reverse the effects of your hydroquinone treatment. See this post for my sunscreen recommendations.

Please don't use it with:

Products containing peroxide, including benzoyl peroxide. When used together, these ingredients can end up staining your skin, though this is usually temporary.

How long to work?

Used daily, you can expect noticeable results in 6-12 weeks.

What about side effects:

Hydroquinone is deemed safe in Canada. There isn't any clinical evidence currently to suggest that hydroquinone is harmful to humans.

However, minor side effects are still possible. It may cause a temporary increase in redness or dryness at first, especially if you have sensitive skin. These effects should fade as your skin becomes used to the product.

In rare cases, hydroquinone has caused a condition called ochronosis. It appears as bumps and bluish-black pigmentation. This can occur after prolonged daily use and with excessive exposure. This is easily avoided by only using this ingredient for 3-4 months and being very careful to stay out of the sun.

How do I use it:

Do not use hydroquinone topical on sunburned, dry, chapped, or irritated, skin or on an open wound. It could make these conditions worse. Discontinue use if excessive irritation develops.

Apply the medication to clean, dry skin after cleansing. Dispense a pea-sized amount on the back of your hand, apply to hyperpigmented areas as a spot treatment. Avoid the corners of the mouth and nose; these areas can be irritated easily. Apply to the affected area(s) morning and night.

Book an appointment with Dr. Sarah Baldwin to determine if this ingredient is suitable for you.